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This one-of-a-kind building
was one of the last lighthouses built in New England, and it
represents a rare case of an early 20th century offshore lighthouse
that is not of cast-iron construction. The stately red brick
building with its mansard roof and granite detailing makes a
striking picture standing off by itself near the entrance to
Connecticut's New London Harbor, at the extreme eastern end of
Long Island Sound.
The lighthouse reportedly owes its distinctive French Second
Empire style to the influence of the wealthy home owners on the
local coast, who wanted a structure in keeping with the elegance
of their own homes. Many of the large homes near the shore in
the area were destroyed in the great hurricane of September 21,
1938.
By the early 1900s, New London, with its protected harbor
at the mouth of the Thames River, had made the transition from
whaling center to industrial city. New London Ledge Light was
built because New London Harbor Light wasn't sufficient to direct
vessels around the dangerous ledges at the entrance to the harbor.
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- U.S. Coast Guard photo
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Lobbying for the lighthouse began in 1890. In 1903 the Lighthouse
Board made this recommendation:
The necessity for establishing a light and an efficient
fog signal in such a position as to enable vessels to enter and
leave the harbor of New London, Conn., has become evident, and
especially so for the aid of those approaching from seaward.
The numerous outlying shoals and ledges surrounding the
entrance to this harbor make the approach to it dangerous in
thick weather. ... In view of these facts... it is suggested
that a light and fog signal station be established...
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- The lighthouse was built by the Hamilton R. Douglas Company
of New London. This company also built Groton Town Hall. The
crib it stands on was constructed by the T.A. Scott Company in
Groton and was towed to the site, where it was filled with concrete
and riprap and sunk in 28 feet of water.
A riprap deposit, 82 feet square and 10 feet deep, surrounds
and protects the foundation. A concrete pier, 50 feet square
and rising 18 feet above low water, was constructed on top of
the foundation. The pier contains cellar space and two water
cisterns.
The lighthouse was at first called Southwest Ledge Light,
but the name was changed to avoid confusion with the lighthouse
of the same name in New Haven Harbor.
The cast-iron lantern rises from the center of the building's
mansard roof. The lantern originally held a fourth-order Fresnel
lens (now at the Custom House in New London) from the Henry-Lepaute
Company of Paris, with an icandescent oil vapor lamp. A clockwork
mechanism had to be wound every four hours to keep the lens revolving.
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- U.S. Coast Guard photo
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When it was first lighted, the New London Day reported
that the light could be seen up to 18 miles away. The characteristic
was three white flashes followed by a red flash every 30 seconds.
A fog signal was added in 1911, replacing the one at New London
Harbor Light.
Howard B. Beebe was keeper during the hurricane of September
21,1938. He was in the lighthouse with a second assistant keeper
and a tinsmith. Beebe's family was on shore at the time the gale
struck. "It washed out everything," Keeper Beebe later
told the Providence Journal:
About 3:15, the engines conked out, but the light was going.
We moved to the lantern. It was a three-story building. Waves
were coming through the second floor. I've seen waves before,
in the Bay of Fundy, but I never saw them like that. There was
11 tons of coal in the cellar, and it boiled it all out.
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Coast Guard crews lived at the lighthouse from 1939 until
its automation in 1987. The crew worked in three man shifts,
spending up to three weeks at the lighthouse followed by six
days on shore. Somebody once explained why there were three men
at the lighthouse at one time -- if two men had a fight, there
would be a third to break it up. The Coast Guardsmen spent much
of their time fishing and working out in the small gym in the
lighthouse.
According to Elinor De Wire, author of the book Guardians
of the Lights, they were occasionally driven to distraction
by the smells wafting from the mainland -- freshly mown lawns
and barbecues -- as well as by the sight, viewable by binoculars,
of young women on a nearby beach.
New London Ledge Light was generally considered undesirable
duty, but some enjoyed the solitude and beauty of the place.
Petty Officer 1st Class Timothy Grant, a Maine native, told the
New York Times in 1984, "After a week ashore, I can't
wait to get back here."
He knew it wasn't for everybody, adding, "This might
be an ideal place for a loner, but it would drive whoever lives
with him up a wall."
Seaman Don Place put it simply, "You get a lot of time
to think."
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Probably the best-known part of this station's history and
lore is the lighthouse's infamous ghost, "Ernie." It's
been claimed that in the 1920s or '30s, a keeper learned that
his wife had run off with the captain of the Block Island ferry.
Distraught, the keeper jumped -- or fell -- from the roof of
the lighthouse to his death, the story goes. Some versions of
this story say that Ernie's real name may have been John Randolf
or Randolph. If there's any truth behind the legend, it's elusive.
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But there does seem to be unexplainable activity at the lighthouse.
Doors have been known to open and close mysteriously, decks have
swabbed themselves, televisions have turned themselves off, and
the fog horn seems to turn on and off for no reason. Securely
tied boats have mysteriously been set adrift.
In 1987, New London Ledge Light became the last lighthouse
on Long Island Sound to be automated. On the last day before
automation, a Coast Guardsman entered in the log:
Rock of slow torture. Ernie's domain. Hell on earth --
may New London Ledge's light shine on forever because I'm through.
I will watch it from afar while drinking a brew.
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- This painting of the lighthouse on
a wall on the first floor was done by one of the last Coast Guardsmen
on duty at the light.
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- Views of both sides of the Fresnel
lens on display in the Custom House Museum of Maritime History
in New London. The lens produced a sequence of three white flashes
and one red flash.
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The fourth order Fresnel lens once in the lighthouse is now
at Custom House Museum of Maritime History in New London. There
is now a VRB-25 optic in use in the lighthouse.
Solar panels were added in 1998, providing power for the light
and fog signal. The rest of the electricity is provided by a
cable from Avery Point.
Today the lighthouse is leased to the New London Ledge Lighthouse
Foundation. This group, with the help of grants and private contributions,
has done some restoration of the building's interior. The plan
is to eventually turn the building into a combination museum
and bed and breakfast.
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You can see the lighthouse fairly distantly from the shore
of New London, especially in the Pequot Avenue area, and you
can get a good view from the Fisher's Island and Block Island
ferries leaving New London.
In the summer months Project
Oceanology in Groton runs tours of the lighthouse. You
can also contact the New London Ledge Lighthouse Foundation (a chapter of the American Lighthouse Foundation) for
more information:
New London Ledge Lighthouse Foundation
P.O. Box 855
New London, Connecticut 06320
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You can read much more about this lighthouse in the
book The
Lighthouses of Connecticut by Jeremy D'Entremont.
Keepers: ? Bloom (1910-?-); George Hansen (c.
1913-1915), Charles E. Minkler (second assistant, 1914-?); Howard
Beebe (1926-1938), John E. Ethridge (Coast Guard, c. 1981), Richard
Mumenthaler (Coast Guard, c. 1981), Vernon L. Smith (Coast Guard,
c. 1981), Timothy Grant (Coast Guard, c. 1984), Donald Place
(Coast Guard, c. 1984), Dean Notte (Coast Guard, c. 1984), Charles
Kerr (Coast Guard officer in charge, c. 1985), Mark DeBiase (Coast
Guard, c. 1984-1985)
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